I have fond memories of visiting typical Swiss markets on Saturday mornings filled with fresh vegetables from the farmer, Sunday butter plait from the baker’s wife, or honey from the local beekeeper. Is there something similar to this in a cosmopolitan city like Seoul?
As is often the case in life, chance played a role in this experience. Some time ago, I discovered a store with Korean food and specialties in my neighborhood, Hannam-dong. The owner of the store explained to me that his goods are exclusively from organic farmers from the surrounding area. He also informed me that every Saturday there is a Farmer’s Market in the city of Seoul, where farmers directly sell their goods. Will a visit to the Farmer’s Market trigger the same feelings in me that I had at the Swiss markets?
When I visited the Farmer’s Market in Dongsung-dong that week, I discovered a small, inconspicuous stall. A Korean woman was selling tofu in small, square containers. She told me that she goes to Seoul once a month to sell her products at the market. And so it happened that I met Eun-Ji Lee (36) 이은지 from Goesan, Chungcheongbuk-do province.
Eun-Ji, it takes more than two hours to get from Goesan to Seoul. Why do you make this effort?
I want to make our homemade tofu available to people in the city. The Farmer’s Market is an ideal platform where we farmers can introduce and sell our organic and sustainable products. In addition, I love contact with people.
People can buy tofu on every corner in Seoul, how is yours unique?
Yes, many people buy tofu in the supermarket or order it online. But when it comes to quality, there are clearly noticeable differences. Our products are made fresh every day – without additives or preservatives. That’s where the difference lies.
That’s the only difference?
(laughs) We farm and grow the soybeans ourselves. Unlike most, however, we use less water in the preparation process. This and a few other secrets give our tofu a special touch. Our customers especially appreciate the tofu because it reminds them of their childhood. For most people, tofu was still made by hand then.
Being able to participate in a process where something new and natural can be created gives me a lot of energy and makes me happy.
Eun-Ji Lee 이은지
Are you a big company?
We are a small family business consisting of my parents and me. We produce about 90 kg of tofu per day. Every morning at three a.m., seven days a week, my parents make tofu in the small production hall. I usually join the production a little later and help them with the packaging. In the morning, I make deliveries to the suppliers and regular customers in the surrounding area. I am also responsible for sales, marketing, and communication. Our products can also be ordered online. However, this is only possible in winter. Freshly prepared tofu can usually only be kept for a few days and, in summer, the temperatures in Korea are too hot.
How come you are involved in the family business?
After graduating from Yonsei University, I worked in Ochang in a medium-sized company doing employee training. However, I was looking for a different kind of challenge and wanted to discover the values that are important to me. My work was too “top-heavy” at that time. I was looking for a task where I could increasingly produce something with my hands. I finally found my vocation in my parents’ business. To be able to participate in a process in which something new and natural can be created gives me a lot of energy and makes me happy. I also wanted to return to my roots, to the place where I was born and grew up. I also care a lot about preserving traditional crafts and passing them on.
How did your parents react when you joined them in the family business?
In the beginning, my parents were not enthusiastic about the idea. I have a university degree from one of the best universities in Seoul and had a good job. But they quickly changed their minds and warmly welcomed me into their small company.
We don’t have a boss in the traditional sense of the word, it’s the team that counts. But even with us, there are challenges and different views from time to time. My parents have been in the tofu business for some time. They are a well-coordinated team, so everything works quite well. As a result, there is usually very little talk about changes or innovations. It takes a lot of convincing on my part to introduce and implement new ideas. In addition, there is the cultural challenge that stems from the importance of respect for parents. There was a learning curve for us, but we have grown over time. Therefore, I have been able to make many positive changes, and it is easier for me to convince my parents of new ideas. Just recently, I was able to expand our marketing and open an online store.
Has your family business been around for a long time?
My parents ran a small supermarket in their house over 13 years ago. In addition to the usual assortment, they also sold freshly prepared tofu. This was very appreciated by the customers, which motivated them to produce more. And so it happened that 13 years ago my parents decided to give up the supermarket in order to concentrate entirely on their tofu.
Your tofu production is very successful. How do you continue?
We are very happy with our small family business. We do not plan on expanding our company as remaining small allows us to be fine and authentic. The quality of our product is very important to us.
Many people – especially in the Western world – think that tofu tastes like nothing.
This is only partially true. Tofu, which is produced in large factories, has added preservatives and a lot of water. This causes it to be somewhat tasteless. With freshly made tofu, such as ours, it’s different, especially because we use our own traditional recipes.
Tofu is an important ingredient in Korean cuisine. If we compare it with the potato in Switzerland, for example, there are some similarities. I’m thinking mainly of stews and soups. How is tofu primarily cooked?
Tofu is very rich in protein. It’s a plant-based product, so it’s often used in vegetarian and vegan cooking. You can fry, boil, deep fry, or bake tofu. There are no limits to your imagination. In Korea, we often use tofu in stews such as Sundubu Jjigae 순두부찌개, Kimchi Jiigae 김치찌개 or crispy fried with Gochujang 고추장 (spicy red chili paste). Also, tofu is always served as a side dish and can’t be missing from any Korean meal.
Does tofu make it to your table every day?
Although I like tofu a lot, I don’t eat it every day. However, there is nothing better than being woken up in the morning by the smell of freshly prepared tofu. I like that magical moment.
Following our interview conversation and after an interesting tour and demonstration of tofu production, I had the pleasure of tasting the tofu fresh off the press. And what I learned from the interview came true. Already at the first “bite”, I notice the difference. This tofu convinces in taste, consistency, and freshness. A flight of fancy for everyone, not only vegetarians. Of course, the homemade soy sauces and the cordiality of the hosts contributed to the deliciousness of the meal.
On the way back to Seoul, I was again thinking of the Farmer’s Market in Seoul. The fact that I will certainly not find a Sunday Butter plait there is also a good thing. Tofu is the healthier alternative for me in the long run. At future Farmer’s Markets, you will be able to find me at Eun-Ji’s tofu stand stocking up for the week.
