Recently, I was once again strolling through the Tongin-dong neighborhood, which is located in the Jongno-gu district. I was curious to see what had changed in the last two months. In Seoul, it is not unusual to discover a nice café that closes its doors again a few months later. One shop, however, caught my eye, despite the French-sounding name (in Seoul specifically shop owners use German and French names a lot for their business to attract customers). It was not one of the many cafes or pastry shops, but it rather resembled a small version of a Korean traditional rice mill with a modern design and twist. So, I was curious to check it out and stepped into the shop.
I just wanted to try and taste one of those special rice cookies which they offered right next to the counter where you could also order drinks. The conversation with the shop owner, known as rice dessert designer, Seon ha Yoo 유선하 (43), was so exciting that I spontaneously interviewed her.
Seon ha, you sell baked goods made from rice flour here?
That’s right. I only use rice flour for my products, which I grind and process myself in my bakery. Rice flour is an interesting alternative to normal wheat flour. Rice is good for the digestive system, a better source of folate, and contains a higher glycemic index compared to wheat, and it is vegan. In addition, our brownies and tarts are gluten-free.
What made you decide to make products from rice flour?
It was more of a coincidence. I originally majored in ballet at a university in Korea and was a ballet dancer with the Korea National Ballet for many years.
From the world stage as a ballet dancer to the bakery?
If you want to pursue a career in ballet, you usually start at the age of about four. I, however, only started at the age of ten, but my teachers quickly recognized my talent for a career as a ballet dancer. My parents always supported me and that’s how I managed to join the Korea National Ballet company. I am also a trained ballet teacher and taught kids at the Korean National Ballet Academy and other private institutes. However, this job required a lot of perseverance and practice. At the age of 35 – at the peak of my career – I decided to stop professional dancing and focused more on teaching and contribute myself for future ballerinas.
It was during that time when my mother became ill and had to give up normal dietaries. Her diet included rice bread, which she could not afford at that time. This particular bread was simply too expensive for her and not available everywhere. This situation spiked my interest in healthy food and eating habits. I started to educate myself on how to make bread from rice flour.
You went on to train as a baker?
I was still working as a ballet teacher at that time. During the day I taught my students. In the evenings, I continued my education with various teachers on how to bake with rice.
With different teachers?
Yes, because there are many ways of making rice cakes. So, I always look for new places and teachers where I can learn the different techniques. I still do this today.
And then have your own business?
The more I got into rice baking, the greater my desire was to have my own business. I then opened the “Moulin du Monde” in Seochon Hanok Village, Seoul, about five years ago. Seochon, west of Gyeonbokgung palace, is the most traditional neighborhood where rice cake was served as the precious food for noble people, so I found this area is the most suitable spot for my rice-based desserts.
And the shop is still there. Successfully?
Laughs. Being self-employed, especially in this trade, is not easy. There is a lot of competition. You have to constantly develop and create new products. I also make many desserts, cakes, and pastries from rice flour with less artificial ingredients. You can also order our products online. At the moment, “Bread for Baby” is very trendy. It is a special bread for infants, which is the best-selling item in our shop. At this point, I can say I’m a little proud of it because the bread is number 1 selling at the online portal Naver. I receive up to a hundred orders a day. The bread is then baked in the morning, packed, and picked up in the afternoon by the delivery service, which delivers them all over Korea within a day.
So, a lot of online orders as well?
Online orders account for almost 70 percent. The shopping behavior during the pandemic certainly contributed to this. However, exploded online shopping and delivery habits made us face new challenges. Last two years, online shopping development literally overloaded the delivery workers, and they went on strike. Even it was hard to obtain the appropriate packaging material, the cardboard boxes.
Do you also offer baking courses?
Baking courses for adults and special courses for children. At the time of Covid-19, however, this was almost impossible to face people in person. Therefore, I have developed a DIY (Do-It-Yourself) rice cookies baking kit for children. You can order the package and simply follow the instructions included. So, you can bake the rice-colored cookies yourself at home with the children.
Have you stopped ballet altogether?
As a professional dancer, yes. But as a ballet teacher, I like to pass on my knowledge to the younger generation. If I have enough time for two jobs, I would love to meet children. Actually, I have a dream to own a two-story building and open a rice bakery on the first floor and a ballet academy on the second floor.
Seon ha, thank you for your hospitality and especially for the delicious chocolate brownies, which we enjoyed fresh from the oven and still warm. I am looking forward to your next projects…made of rice flour, of course.
